Yes, gloss and matt varnishes of the same type* can be mixed in any ratio to achieve the desired level of gloss.
When applying a varnish containing a matting agent, the last action should be to brush the varnish in one direction only to achieve an even matte finish.
* The same types are: Matt and glossy acrylic varnish or matt and glossy picture varnish.
Varnish, when applied, can pearl the paint layer if it is too compact.
As soon as this is verified, the varnish that is still wet must be removed with white spirit. To avoid repetition, the paint layer should be applied less compactly, which is achieved by first cleaning the canvas with white spirit.
Use of retouching varnish
Touch-up varnish (sometimes also called intercoat varnish) is used to brighten dull areas (matts) and temporarily protect oil paintings that are not fully dry (temporary finishing varnish).
Touch-up varnish during the painting process
When painting, "dark spots" may appear: the paint becomes dull and the intensity of the color decreases. This phenomenon cannot be avoided. The cause is a combination of the color used, the type and amount of solvent added, and the absorption of the substrate.
The amount of oil contained in the paint varies depending on the color, as does the amount of thinner added to it. When the paint contains relatively little oil, and the substrate absorbs some of it, the color fades.
Thus it is difficult to assess the harmony of the colors of the painting. Making the right decision on how to continue painting now becomes a problem. By treating dull areas (when they are dry to the touch) with a very small amount of touch-up varnish, the shine and color will reappear. If the dull areas are very absorbent, it will be necessary to repeat the operation (allowing it to dry between one application and another) until the color and shine are adequate.
The varnish dries in a few hours and forms a porous paint film so that subsequent coats adhere well.
PLEASE NOTE: It is very important to use very little retouching varnish, because the paint, not being completely dry, can dissolve in the varnish thinner. Spray application is recommended.
Touch-up varnish as temporary final varnish
In addition, the touch-up varnish can also be used as a temporary final varnish to give the painting an even shine and protect it from dirt.
If the varnish is applied in a thin layer, it remains porous and the drying process of the paint can continue.
PLEASE NOTE: For this application it is extremely important to let the painting dry for at least several months, because although the paint seems dry to the touch, the lower layers are not yet. The varnish thinner would penetrate the layers and force the not yet dry oil out. If this happens, the painting can remain sticky for many months and contaminant particles will stick to the paint.
When the paint is completely dry, a final varnish such as Touch-Up Varnish can be applied.
The application of a provisional topcoat is not strictly necessary, but may be advisable if the frame shows any signs of differences in gloss or is exhibiting before the topcoat is applied. In addition, the paint is protected from dirt.
PLEASE NOTE: If a painting is varnished before the paint has had time to fully dry, the paint under the varnish will remain soft for quite some time, as the varnish layer will have sealed the paint to contact with oxygen, making it difficult to dry. In this case, when the varnish layer is removed, the paint layer can also partially dissolve.
When removing old layers of varnish, care must be taken to avoid problems during cleaning.
Step 1:
Take a flat brush a few centimeters wide, dip it in white spirit (use ONLY white spirit) and apply to a surface of about 15 x 15 cm.
Step 2:
Wait for the varnish to start to swell. Meanwhile, rinse the brush and repeat the action on the swollen varnish. This will now partially dissolve in the white spirit left on the brush.
Step 3:
Repeat the action each time with the well-rinsed brush until all the varnish on that surface has dissolved.
Step 4:
Then treat another segment.
ATTENTION: When the varnish has been removed, it appears as if a whitish layer remains on the paint. This will disappear when it is varnished again.
Preparation:
First, it is important that the paint is well dried. In normal thickness layers, it takes about a year, but in thicker layers, several years.
If you must varnish a painting that has been painted for a few years, first wipe a cloth with a little white spirit over the painted surface. Thus, the dirt is removed from the painting and the paint surface film is slightly opened so that the varnish adheres better.
Steps in varnishing:
Matt and satin varnishes contain matting materials that settle to the bottom of the varnish, so varnishes must be shaken well before use.
Both the painting and the varnish should be at room temperature.
It is a good idea to put the painting in a horizontal position (place it very spacious on a piece of cardboard, plastic or newspapers).
Hold the spray upright (not pointing down) and spray forward so that the spray falls on the frame in a mist.
No, unless the paint layer is very thin, it cannot be applied beforehand.
A normal thickness oil painting can be varnished after about a year, very thin layers several months earlier, and thicker layers only after several years.
PLEASE NOTE: If the varnish is applied too soon, there is a risk that the varnish thinner will dissolve the oil that the paint carries, which is not yet completely dry, and bring it to the surface. If this happens, the painting will be sticky for many months or even years, and dust will inevitably settle on the painting.
Oil paintings: reasons and times for varnishing
Oil paintings must be varnished. The varnish protects against aging and dirt. When: after a drying period of at least one year.
Oil paint dries chemically (by oxidation). The oil dries by the absorption of oxygen and air. Molecules form interlocking chains. Light (ultraviolet) is essential to produce the energy necessary for the process. Chemical drying of linseed oil is a lengthy process that takes much longer than physical drying of other types of paint.
Depending on the thickness of the layer and the type of pigment used, it takes approximately one to six weeks for the paint film to be dry to the touch. The entire film is completely dry in a period of between six and twelve months. Very thick layers can even take several years to dry.
During this time, the absorption of oxygen does not stop taking place and this is when aging begins. Once the paint dries, it is advisable to treat the painting with a final varnish. This helps slow down the absorption of oxygen and consequently the aging process.
It is also important that the varnish protects the painting from dirt. Over time, dirt and other impurities accumulate not only on the paint, but also inside it. If the painting is varnished, the "dirty" layer of varnish can be removed without damaging the paint.
To ensure a long-lasting paint film, a painting can only be varnished if the paint is completely dry. The application of a provisional topcoat is not strictly necessary, but may be advisable if the frame shows any signs of differences in gloss or is exhibiting before the topcoat is applied. In addition, the paint is protected from dirt.
A very frequent mistake is to apply excessive touch-up varnish and before its time.
When applied to a painting that is dry to the touch, the solvent in the varnish dilutes the oil in the paint, causing it to rise to the surface, where it will form a sticky layer. If the touch-up varnish has been applied between layers and painted over, there will be no problem.
But if the touch-up varnish is applied prematurely as a temporary varnish, then the problem described above will arise, resulting in a surface layer made up of a mixture of oil and resin. This layer will be sticky for months and the only solution is to be patient.
To avoid this phenomenon, it is advisable to wait several months for the paint to dry before applying the varnish; for a very thin layer of paint, it takes at least a month.
It is also very important to always apply touch-up varnish sparingly. The more varnish, the more solvent will be applied, which increases the problem. In addition, only thin coats of touch-up varnish are porous enough to allow subsequent coats of paint to adhere (as a varnish between coats) and to allow the oxygen necessary for fully drying the paint (as a provisional top coat).